1929 NAOMI JOHNSON DOBBS HAT MILLINERY FASHION ALFRED CHENEY JOHNSTON AD 28861

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1929 NAOMI JOHNSON DOBBS HAT MILLINERY FASHION ALFRED CHENEY JOHNSTON AD 28861 DATE OF THIS ** ORIGINAL ** ILLUSTRATED COVER: 1929SPECIAL CHARACTERISTICS/DESCRIPTIVE WORDS: Previously known as the Hat Corp. of America, Dobbs began at 417 Fifth Avenue in New York City during 1908. The name was later changed to Dobbs and became known for their stylish dress and hunting hats. Throughout the 20th century they continued to produce high quality hats. MONTEREY BLAZER John J. Cavanagh (January 16, 1864 – January 24, 1957) was an American gentleman’s hatter based in New York City. He was a Democratic mayor of South Norwalk and of Norwalk, Connecticut. He was a leader in both styling and manufacturing of hats for fifty years. Political career In 1902, Cavanagh was elected mayor of South Norwalk and in 1908, he was elected mayor of Norwalk. He is the only person to have served as mayors of both cities prior to their consolidation in 1913. He was very active in Democratic Party politics, and in 1925 was considered for the candidacy for governor of Connecticut. However, he was unwilling, due to his business responsibilities. He was a founder of the Norwalk Hospital, and was a member of its board of trustees for 20 years. He was a founder of the Shorehaven Golf Club, a member of the Merritt Parkway Commission, the Norwalk Housing Authority, the Norwalk Kiwanis Club, and the State Prison Board Hat manufacturing business Cavanagh went to work for William A. Brown hatters of Norwalk at the age of 17. He worked as a sizer, trimmer, finisher, expert cutter, curler, and plant superintendent. In 1880 he began working for Crofut & Knapp, where he was mentored by James H. Knapp. By 1907, Cavanagh was vice-president of Crofut & Knapp, and from 1923 to 1937, he was president of the company. In 1928 Cavanagh created the company of Cavanagh-Dobbs Inc., which included his own hat label, Cavanagh Hats, and a retail outlet in New York City, John Cavanagh Ltd. In 1932, he founded the Hat Corporation of America, merging his brands with Knox & Dunlap. In 1934 the Cavanagh Hat Research Corporation was founded to research materials and manufacturing methods to benefit the industry. He gave his name to a method of finishing hat brims known as the Cavanagh Edge. Cavanagh’s other innovations included introducing regular, long and wide-oval fitting hats to enable customers to find better-fitting ready-to-wear hats. In 1939 John Cavanagh was awarded a Neiman Marcus Fashion Award in recognition of his services to the American hat industry. He retired in 1947, though retained an honorary vice-presidency, and died in 1957. His son, J. Garvan Cavanagh, inherited vice presidency of the company, but left in 1961 to become a Roman Catholic priest. Cavanagh Hats Al Webb (b. February 15, 1920), who joined the company after the Second World War, was by 1961 Vice President of Sales for the Hat Corporation of America. Like J. Garvan Cavanagh, he was a close friend of John F. Kennedy, whose dislike of wearing hats had led to a downturn in hat sales. At a 1961 PT reunion in Washington, DC, Webb accused his friend of having ruined the American hat industry. In response, Kennedy began carrying a hat with the Cavanagh Hats label clearly visible. The first incidence of this was when Kennedy met with Dwight D. Eisenhower on April 22, 1961, at Camp David Hat-making or millinery is the design, manufacture and sale of hats and other headwear. A person engaged in this trade is called a milliner or hatter. Historically, milliners, typically women shopkeepers, produced or imported an inventory of garments for men, women, and children and sold these garments in their millinery shop. Many milliners worked as both milliner and fashion designer, such as Rose Bertin, Jeanne Lanvin, and Coco Chanel. The millinery industry benefited from industrialization during the nineteenth century. In 1889 in London and Paris, over 8,000 women were employed in millinery, and in 1900 in New York, some 83,000 people, mostly women, were employed in millinery. Though the improvements in technology provided benefits to milliners and the whole industry, essential skills, craftsmanship, and creativity are still required. Since the mass-manufacturing of hats began, the term milliner is usually used to describe a person who applies traditional hand-craftsmanship to design, make, sell or trim hats primarily for a mostly female clientele. The term milliner, originally from “Milener”, originally meant someone from Milan, in northern Italy, in the early 16th century. It referred to Milanese merchants who sold fancy bonnets, gloves, jewellery and cutlery. In the 16th to 18th centuries, the meaning of milliner gradually changed from a foreign merchant to a dealer in small articles relating to dress. Although the term originally applied to men, milliner came to mean a woman who makes and sells bonnets and other headgear for women since 1713. ILLUSTRATOR/ARTIST: Alfred Cheney Johnston (known as “Cheney” to his friends and associates) (April 8, 1885 – April 17, 1971) was a New York City-based photographer known for his portraits of Ziegfeld Follies showgirls as well as of actors and actresses from the worlds of stage and film. Biography Johnston was born into an affluent New York banking family, which subsequently moved to Mount Vernon, New York. Initially he studied painting and illustration at the National Academy of Design in New York, but after graduating in 1908 (and marrying fellow student Doris Gernon the next year), his subsequent efforts to earn a living as a portrait painter did not meet with success. Instead, reportedly at the suggestion of longtime family friend and famed illustrator Charles Dana Gibson, he started to employ the camera previously used to record his painting subjects as his basic creative medium. In approximately 1917, Johnston was hired by famed New York City live-theater showman and producer Florenz Ziegfeld as a contracted photographer, and was affiliated with the Ziegfeld Follies for the next fifteen years or so. He also maintained his own highly successful personal commercial photo studio at various locations around New York City as well, photographing everything from aspiring actresses and society matrons to a wide range of upscale retail commercial products—mostly men’s and women’s fashions—for magazine ads. He photographed several hundred actresses and showgirls (mainly in New York City, and whether they were part of the Follies or not) during that time period. Alfred Cheney Johnston died in a car crash near his home in Connecticut on April 17, 1971, three years after the death of his longtime wife, Doris. They had no children. The photographer For his indoor studio work, Johnston often employed a large “Century”-brand view camera that produced 11×14-inch glass-plate negatives, so a standard Johnston 11×14 photographic print was actually just a “contact print” from the negative and not enlarged at all. This size of negative afforded extremely fine image detail. (However, Johnston also is confirmed to have shot with a Graflex camera in 3-1/4 x 4-1/4-inch roll-film format; an unknown brand of 8×10 view camera; and a Zeiss Ikon camera in 120 [2-1/4 x 2-1/4-inch] film format.) Johnston’s “standard” work, of course, was used by Flo Ziegfeld for the normal advertising and promotional purposes for the Follies, and mainly consisted of individual or small-group shots of the Follies showgirls in their extravagant stage costumes. However, after Johnston’s death in 1971, a huge treasure trove of extremely artistic full-nude and semi-nude full-figure studio photos (and their accompanying glass-plate negatives) was found stored at the farm near Oxford, Connecticut, where he’d lived since 1940. Most of these images (some named, mostly anonymous) were, in fact, showgirls from the Ziegfeld Follies, but such daring, unretouched full-frontal images would certainly have had no public-publication possibilities in the 1920s-1930s, so it is speculated that these were either simply his own personal artistic work, and/or done at the behest of Flo Ziegfeld for that showman’s personal enjoyment. The only book known to have been published by Alfred Cheney Johnston during his lifetime devoted to his nudes/glamour photography is the 1937 spiral-bound softcover “Enchanting Beauty”, which contains 94 black-and-white photos (mostly about 7×9 inches, centered on a 9×12-inch page, although a number are cropped circular or in other designs). Unusually (compared to virtually all other examples of his work seen today on the Web or other sources, which were shot in an indoor studio in front of a flat-black or illustrated tapestry background cloth), 37 of these photos were taken outdoors along a stream or in flower-dappled fields, etc. All the shots in the book are “airbrushed” in the pubic area, to keep them legal with respect to the publishing standards of the day. The stock-market crash of 1929 and ensuing Great Depression—combined with several unsuccessful seasons of stage productions and a variety of messy lawsuits—devastated Flo Ziegfeld’s finances, and he died in July 1932. This heavily impacted Alfred Cheney Johnston’s career, and likely led to his relocation to Connecticut at the end of the decade. Although he briefly operated two successive commercial photo studios there in the late 1940s/early 1950s, neither was apparently successful. It is believed that he did also continue his nude/glamour portrait work in a large converted barn/studio on his property, working with a new generation of “post-Ziegfeld” female models and stubbornly continuing to use his massive 11×14-inch view camera. Legacy In 1960, Johnston donated a set of 245 large prints of his work to the Library of Congress in Washington, D.C. (largely nude and semi-nude Follies showgirls, performers from various Ziegfeld shows including Fanny Brice, Billie Burke, Ruby Keeler, the Dolly Sisters, Ina Claire, Helen Morgan, Marilyn Miller, Grace Moore, Ann Pennington, Belle Baker and Ruth Etting, some well-known actors and actresses of the 1920s/1930s including Mary Pickford, Gloria Swanson, Tyrone Power, John Barrymore, Pearl White, Barbara La Marr, Orson Welles, Clara Bow, Ethel Barrymore, Claudette Colbert, Corinne Griffith, Clara Kimball Young, Theda Bara, Mabel Normand, Helen Hayes, Norma Shearer, Anita Stewart, Lillian Gish, Dorothy Gish, Marie Prevost, Tallulah Bankhead, Mary Miles Minter, Hope Hampton, and a number of product-advertisement photos). Apparently five of them have “gone missing” over the years, although the Library still has 240 images in its Prints and Photographs division (Lot 8782). Many years later, a considerable number of original Johnston-printed (and sometimes autographed) photographic prints and many original negatives were purchased at several auctions by at least four different American collectors/entrepreneurs. Nowadays, both original 11×14-inch ACJ prints and more recent reprints from Johnston’s original negatives have commanded significant prices in both on-line auctions and at photo galleries.ADVERT SIZE: SEE RULER SIDES IN PHOTO FOR DIMENSIONS ( ALL DIMENSIONS IN INCHES) **For multiple purchases please wait for our combined invoice. Shipping discount are ONLY available with this method. Thank You. At BRANCHWATER BOOKS we look for rare & unusual ADVERTISING, COVERS + PRINTS of commercial graphics from throughout the world. Our AD’s and COVER’S are ORIGINAL and 100% guaranteed — (we code all our items to insure authenticity) —- we stand behind this.IF YOU WISH TO PURCHASE A RE-MASTERED COPY PLEASE SEE “MODERN POSTERS” IN OUR STORE. As graphic collectors ourselves, we take great pride in doing the best job we can to preserve and extend the wonderful historic graphics of the past. PLEASE LOOK AT OUR PHOTO CLOSELY AS IT IS (ALBEIT LOWER RESOLUTION) THE PRODUCT BEING SOLD…..NOT STOCK IMAGES **NOTE** : PAGES MAY SHOW AGE WEAR AND IMPERFECTIONS TO MARGINS, WITH CLOSED NICKS AND CUTS, WHICH DO NOT AFFECT AD IMAGE OR TEXT WHEN MATTED AND FRAMED. SOMETIMES THE PAGES HAVE BEEN TRIMMED.. PLEASE NOTE THE ACTUAL SIZE OF SELLING AD IN THE ATTACHED PHOTO IMAGE… WHAT YOU SEE IS WHAT YOU GET… We ship via United States Postal Service. We have a 4 day handling time not including weekends or holidays but normally we have all orders processed, packed and shipped within 48 hrs. A Note to our international buyers (Including Canada). Please read before placing a bid or buying an item: **Import taxes, duties and charges are not included in the item price or shipping charges. These charges are the buyer’s responsibility. Please check with your country’s customs office to determine what these additional costs will be prior to bidding/buying on items. These charges are normally collected by the shipping company or when you pick the item up, this is not an additional shipping charge. We are not responsible for shipping times to international buyer’s. Your country’s customs may hold the package for a month or more. **We pride ourselves on quality products, great service, accurate gradations and fast shipping.** BRANCHWATER BOOKS YOUR AD WILL BE SHIPPED ROLLED IN A PROTECTIVE PLASTIC BAG IN AN 80mm (TWICE USPS RECOMMENDED) THICK, 2 INCHES IN DIAMETER (SO AS NOT TO STRESS THE PAPER) SHIPPING TUBE WITH PRESS TIGHT PLASTIC END CAPS.28861 Powered by SixBit’s eCommerce Solution

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